Which Hand Hem Stitch Is Best For My Project?

I’m not a huge fan of hand sewing, but when it comes to hand sewing a hem there just isn’t a machine comparison. A hand-sewn hem is beautiful, couture, and if done right, almost invisible. I always hand hem all dress pants and most skirts that I make.


But how do you choose the right hand stitch for the item that you’re working on? I’ve put together a list of five different hand hemming stitches and compared their advantages and disadvantages. You can refer to this list whenever you need to hand hem an item. Then, below the list are mini tutorials for how to hem by hand five different ways.

HAND HEMMING STITCHES SUMMARY CHART

Stitch	Uses	Edge finish needed	Advantages	Disadvantages
Slip stitch	Lightweight fabric	Clean finish, folded finish	Durable, practically invisible	Takes a long time
Catch stitch	Knits	It can’t be flat. It needs a folded finish.	Stretches, strong, finishes edge, stretches	Lots of thread, takes a long time
Felling or vertical hemming Stitch	Any fabric weight	Any edge finish except thread covered	Versatile, durable, no thread exposed, fairly fast	Not for thread covered
Blind Hem by Hand	Any fabric weight	Any	Versatile, no exposed thread	None
Blind Hem by Machine	Medium or heavy weight, prints	Any	Fast, strong, not by hand	Only on prints, shows more, takes practice, can’t use pins
Blind catch stitch	Any weight	Any	Versatile, no exposed threads, stretch	None

HOW TO HEM BY HAND
 
Slip Stitch

1. Thread the needle with a single thread and tie a knot at one end. Insert the needle into the fold between layers and come up through the fold. Make sure the knot anchors the thread.

2. Grab a tiny bit of the garment fabric with your needle. Moving left 1/4″-1/2″ grab a tiny bit of the folded hem. Moving left another 1/4″-1/2″ grab a tiny bit of the garment fabric. Repeat all the way around the hem.

Catch Stitch

1. Thread the needle with a single thread and tie a knot at one end. Insert the needle into the fold between layers and come up through the fold. Make sure the knot anchors the thread.

2. Grab a tiny bit of the garment fabric with your needle. Moving right (but pointing your needle left) 1/4″-1/2″ grab a tiny bit of the folded hem. Moving right (but pointing your needle left) another 1/4″-1/2″ grab a tiny bit of the garment fabric. Repeat all the way around the hem.

 

Felling or Vertical Hemming Stitch

1. Thread the needle with a single thread and tie a knot at one end. Insert the needle into the fold between layers and come up through the fold. Make sure the knot anchors the thread.

2. Grab a tiny bit of the garment fabric with your needle. Moving left 1/4″-1/2″ grab a tiny bit of the folded hem. Instead of moving grab a tiny bit of the garment fabric right above the stitch. Moving left another 1/4″-1/2″ grab a tiny bit of the folded hem. Repeat all the way around the hem.

 

Blind Hem by Hand

1. Fold the garment fabric so that about 1/4″ of the hem allowance is showing. The inside of the garment should be facing you with the 1/4″ of the hem allowance up.

2. Thread the needle with a single thread and tie a knot at one end. Insert the needle into the hem allowance. Make sure the knot anchors the thread.

3. Grab a tiny bit of the fold with your needle. Moving left 1/4″-1/2″ grab a tiny bit of the hem allowance. Moving left another 1/4″-1/2″ grab a tiny bit of the fold. Repeat all the way around the hem.

Blind Catch Stitch

1. Fold the garment fabric so that about 1/4″ of the hem allowance is showing. The inside of the garment should be facing you with the 1/4″ of the hem allowance up.

2. Thread the needle with a single thread and tie a knot at one end. Insert the needle into the hem allowance. Make sure the knot anchors the thread.

3. Grab a tiny bit of the fold with your needle. Moving right (but pointing your needle left) 1/4″-1/2″ grab a tiny bit of the hem allowance. Moving right (but pointing your needle left) another 1/4″-1/2″ grab a tiny bit of the fold. Repeat all the way around the hem.

 credits to: craftsy.com