Sewing With Pleats

A pleat (older plait) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference.

Pleats are categorized as pressed, that is, ironed or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease, or unpressed, falling in soft rounded folds.

Accordion

Resembling—you guessed it—the bellows of an accordion, these narrow, often heat-set pleats create a raised zigzag pattern and widen slightly toward the bottom, which is why they’re also referred to as sunburst pleats.

Bias

Pleats made in fabric cut on the diagonal. They’re usually stitched down only at the top and left unpressed so that the folds look soft and drapey, similar to what you would see on a Grecian-inspired dress.

Box

Fabric folded to create a wide, flat area at the top. Can be used as a single pleat (for instance, at the back of a shirt yoke) or as a series of pleats (like a cheerleader’s skirt).

Crystal

Very fine, sharply pressed pleats that lie flat and overlap each other the way vertical blinds do. You’ll often find them spiffing up tuxedo shirts.

Godet

Hollow, tubular pleats that create a fluted effect. Designers sometimes use them to make a mermaid-style gown flare out toward the bottom hem.

Inverted

Two folds brought to a center point and pressed. An A-line skirt will frequently have a single inverted pleat in the front that forms an upside-down V. A kick pleat at the back of a pencil skirt is a mini version.

Knife

The most common style, these pressed pleats are generally about one inch apart, all facing the same direction. Usually used in multiples. (Think kilts.)

credits to: realsimple.com