First, be sure to take a look at the blog post on fitting. It goes over the techniques we’ll be using for slashing and pivoting the pattern in order to make adjustments.
How do you know if you need an adjustment for shoulder width?
If your shoulders are wide, the jacket might feel tight across the back. In front, it pulls across the upper chest. The armhole seams appear to be pulling in towards each other with the strain from your shoulders.
For narrow shoulders, the armholes seem to sit too far out and off the shoulder. There is excess fabric across the upper chest and upper back.
Here’s how to adjust for these two common fitting problems.
Wide Shoulders Adjustment
Draw a pivot point at the low shoulder, and another along the armhole. Draw a line from the armhole point towards the middle of the shoulder. Draw another line from the first line to the low shoulder pivot point.
Slash the lines up to the pivot points and clip into the seam allowances. Pivot the first line outward to make the shoulder wider.
Pivot the second line inward to realign the shoulder seam.
Make the same adjustment to the pattern back. Adjust lining pieces to match.
Narrow Shoulders Adjustment
You’ll be drawing the same lines and points described above for wide shoulders. Draw a pivot point at the low shoulder, and another along the armhole. Draw a line from the armhole point towards the middle of the shoulder. Draw another line from the first line to the low shoulder pivot point.
Slash the lines up to the pivot points and clip into the seam allowances. Pivot the first line inward to make the shoulder narrower.
Pivot the second line outward to realign the shoulder seam.
Make the same adjustment to the pattern back. Adjust lining pieces to match.
credits to: sewalongs.com
Comments
Post a Comment